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Dave's Woodworks

Holly Michigan

Updated on: 9/6/2011

Sheet  9 of 10

Notes From Dave's Shop

Re-facing Face Frame Cabinets

No Scale

Veneer Face Frames

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As with many projects there are several ways to accomplish this with very good results.. this discussion is in no way meant to imply that this is the only way nor the best way this can be done.. it is the way I chose to do it with the tools and skills I have, to achieve the look I envisioned..

For the cabinet re-face to look authentic.. the veneer must be applied to the cabinets and FFs (face frames) in the proper sequence..

I first sanded the finish off all surfaces of the cabinets that would be getting veneer.. this went really easy.. apparently there had been very little finish applied or it had worn off over the last 36 years or so.

I started with my upper cabinets.. on the bottom of my upper cabinets was an 1½" space that was formed by the FF, the back panel, end caps and the bottom of the cabinet.. if your cabinets have this space you need to address this issue first.. you could choose to veneer all of these surfaces and keep this look.. I enclosed this space and in some locations blocked out space for under cabinet lighting.. I used ¼" plywood (red oak in my case) to cover this.. bring it flush with the outer edge of the FF and other edges of the cabinets.. you will need to fill any gaps with wood filler and sand smooth and flush with the FFs and other edges that will be receiving veneer.. if your cabinets are flat on the bottom you should apply veneer or ¼" plywood to this first, flush with all edges..

After you have taken care of the bottoms you'll next need to apply the veneer to the end caps (and backs.. for example.. if you have an exposed back to a dining room).. I have one exposed back so I did that first then the end caps..

Next.. work from inside the cabinet to the outside.. on the floor of each cabinet (and on each shelf) I used 1/8" masonite with a painted white side (the kind used for white boards in class rooms) the white side up for a new durable wear surface (also very easily cleaned.. eliminates the need for shelf paper) installed flush with the back side of the FFs.. you'll have to cut the masonite into shorter lengths to fit into the cabinet.. just make your seams behind the vertical FFs.. I attached it to the floor and shelves with short brads.. I then placed an 1/8" thick solid wood strip across the thresh-hold of each cabinet opening, flush with the new floor wear surface and the outside of the FFs.. now fill with wood filler any gaps in this newly installed piece and the bottom FF and sand flush with the FF..

Now is the time to do the inner edges (around each opening) of the FFs.. on these inner edges I used iron-on tape veneer.. and it worked very well.. after the tape is installed trim the edges (inside and out) then sand outside flush with the FFs.. I then installed a 3/8" x (however thick your shelf is now) of solid wood on the front edge of each shelf.. this covers the plywood edge of the shelf and the masonite overlay.. it is easier to install this strip on the shelf after the inside edges of the opening are taped (you don't have to fit the tape around the shelf)..

You can now begin to apply the veneer to the FFs.. notice the joints in the original FFs.. you'll want to keep these same joint lines to make it look authentic.. this is where the FF cutting guide is very handy (handy..? no a must).. Rockler has a neat little tool (metal guide.. "only $15.99" but well worth it) for trimming the veneer at the FF joints.. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10500   from here on it doesn't make a lot of difference which FFs you do first (vertical or horizontal.. but do all one direction first)..

The same seam with the door open..

Note:

I used paper-backed veneer applied with water base contact adhesive (3M Fastbond 30-NF.. as recommended by my veneer supplier).. face frames were veneered as well as the inner edges of the face frames.. on the inner edges I used iron-on tape veneer.. and it worked very well.. every where else I used the paper-backed veneer, even on the end caps and back of one upper..

We are working on "installed" cabinets so all veneer is applied to vertical surfaces.. the veneer is aligned over the substrate with clean paper between.. then remove the paper as you attach the veneer.. similar to doing a horizontal surface with spacer sticks (only you need several more hands)..

Hereafter when I say "apply" I mean that the contact adhesive has been applied to both surfaces and allowed to cured properly and you then apply the veneer to the substrate (in this case the cabinet)..

I enclosed this space and blocked out space for under cabinet lighting..

Notice the white shelf.. it's 1/8" Masonite with a painted white side up (the wife loves it).. an 1/8" thick solid wood strip across the thresh-hold of each cabinet opening to fill out to the FF..

Here is a seam where a vertical FF meets the horizontal FF..

I had one location where I needed a vertical FF to cross a horizontal FF.. so I needed to do the vertical first, other than that it makes little difference.. I cut strips of veneer to width and length (a little over size.. for trimming after applied) and applied.. you must remember to trim the ends and any other junction in the FFs as you go.. trim the sides flush to the FFs before starting the next direction..

Here is a vertical seam at the cabinet corner..

Here is a horizontal seam..

I had to cross this upper horizontal FF veneer with a vertical FF veneer.. this is normally not done but.. the run of upper cabinets is longer than 8'

(the length of my veneer)..

Seams on the lower cabinets are a little different.. Here the vertical FF veneer butts into the upper horizontal veneer.. while crossing the lower horizontal FF veneer under the drawer..